The uses of mono slides are interesting - they can be slotted in to a colour slide presentation for contrast, a marketing technique that is currently very popular. They can also be printed on Ilfochrome (Cibachrome) or other reversal papers for high impact display prints.
However, if black and white prints could be made from slides using ordinary mono RC paper, there would major cost savings for proofing. Where colour slide subjects do not contain strong hues, a reversal kit for papers as well as films would allow quick prints from these as well.
Reversal prints made from slides actually
improve on the low base density and weak highlights of the mono slides -
above left, lanscape print (G4.5) and above right, original slide. The print
below left has better highlight detail
than original, below right.
To meet this demand, Tetenal have produced the SW-Dia Kit which allows transparencies to be made from black and white negative material, and by using their own Comfort VC RC paper, black and white reversal prints.
The SW-Dia Kit is presented in the standard Tetenal packaging with all the chemicals in foil bags except for the bleach, which is in a 50ml glass bottle. The chemistry consists of a first developer which is packaged in two parts and mixed with water to a total volume of 500ml. The remaining chemistry consists of single packets of clearing bath, second developer and fixing bath; all mix with water to 500ml of working solution. Mixing is very easy and quick as there are no powders to dissolve.
There is a comprehensive list covering most of the current black and white films for first developer processing times, the remaining times being universal for all films. The instructions suggest that a slow or medium speed film is most suitable for graphic and pictorial applications although faster films are recommended for lower light levels. Incidentally, the instructions with this kit are the best that I have seen with a Tetenal product.
The recommended exposure to a 100 to 150 watt lamp at 12 inches is one minute to both front and back of film with the film immersed in water to avoid any drops of water on the film causing spots by lens action. In practice I took the film spiral out of the tank and placed it in a large clear glass Pyrex jug to allow a more even distribution of light. Recommended agitation is one inversion every 3 seconds for the first development followed by one inversion every 15 to 20 seconds for the remaining baths. The whole development process including the final wash took about 50 minutes.
I was certain that the first two were not the reason so I decided to expose a second roll of the same film stock and increase the reversal exposure from 1 minute for each side to a massive 5 minutes. At the same time I double checked the temperature of the chemicals although I knew that they could not be incorrect the first time because I do use a thermostatically controlled water bath for tests of this nature. The result was better, around 2.0 to 2.1 D, once again denser to the outside of the reel.
I was so concerned with the discrepancy between instructions and results that I contacted Tetenal's UK office to ask for advice. Tetenal arranged for Dr Ruediger Freund to call me from Germany. Dr Freund felt that my processing was satisfactory, and I have agreed to send the remainder of the kit back to Germany in order that he can carry out some laboratory tests on it. In the meantime, I will expose another brand of film in new chemistry and with much more reversal exposure out of the reel, and report the results in the next issue.
This is the only place that the instructions are less than clear. I discovered this when I was cutting paper for test strips and at the same time put a print into the second developer. Instead of the rapid development that is normal for this stage, the image did not appear for some time but when the white light was switched on it very quickly appeared but was degraded. The whole process of making a print takes about 20 minutes.
Because Tetenal Comfort is a variable contrast paper grades can be changed in the same way as when printing from negative stock. I made a number of prints and, because of the contrast of the transparencies, found that I was printing on the softer grades. However, where too much exposure had been given at the taking stage resulting in a thin transparency, I could increase the contrast of the print by using a harder grade. This is the same principle as printing a thin negative that has been underexposed. Burning and dodging can be applied but you have to remember that burning lightens and dodging darkens when printing transparencies.
The prints retained excellent highlight detail even where the slide original was overexposed. Generally, they showed a full range of tones and little in the way of grain, and did not have the excessive contrast which often results from reversal printing.
When I spoke to Dr Freund it was clear that Tetenal are very concerned that I report my findings so far. When Dr Freund carries out his tests on the partly used kit that I am returning to him, he will let me know whether it is the nature of Paterson reel and second exposure conditions which affected my films. Perhaps the most significant thing that we have learned from this test is that we can be content in the knowledge that Tetenal will listen to the photographer on the street, which is not always the case with some of the bigger companies in the market place. Watch this space for further developments, if you will pardon the pun.
- Les McLean
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